Pattern #4

With each of these exercises, a marked track that is closer to the inside of the ring does not mean that you take an inside track. Rather, you continue on your previous rail (possibly in a different direction).

This pattern could be the simplest, or the hardest. Every movement counts, and don't avoid a specific one. Turns on the haunches/forehand can be taught through this same pattern, minus the repetition of each. It's self-explanatory, however you are continuing on the same track after every turn, not moving to the inside as the diagram shows.

Pattern #3

With each of these exercises, a marked track that is closer to the inside of the ring does not mean that you take an inside track. Rather, you continue on your previous rail (possibly in a different direction).

Start by trotting. The long straight-away side of the arena is the side you lengthen your trot, and the shorter side with corners is where you shorten. Remember, your horse should be engaged through each change. Your horse should not speed up when you ask him to lengthen, but cover more ground with the same speed. When you shorten, your horse should not fall out through his back and disengage, but keep the impulsion and cover LESS ground.
Halt on the second long straight-away at the trot, half-halting first. Continue trotting until you reach the point where you started. Walk 1/3 of the way, and then pick up a canter. Your lengthening and shortening principles remain the same. This is a good exercise while jumping, to help adjust for your distances.
Halt, and turn on the forehand. Walk several steps to rebalance and canter again. The last straight away is filled with transitions. Don't go through the movements. Make sure your horse lightens with each and responds to your aids. Trot, walk, halt, and then back up to finish.

Reverse your pattern a little later.

Patterns 1 & 2

Reverse them so that you can complete each movement easily tracking both ways. I set them up beginning to track left, but if that is all you do, your horse will become one-sided. Exercise each pattern in both directions for the full result.

Also, do not abandon your position while completing these patterns. They are simple. They are designed to make you think about everything at once, and keep your horse responsive the whole way. Don't jeopardize any movement either just to complete the pattern. If you just can't get your horse to do a nice turn on the forehand, skip it! Make a half-circle back instead and continue the pattern. Afterward, spend 5-10 minutes on turning on the forehand, and then move on. Focusing on one movement and drilling your horse with it will only make you frustrated. Your horse will resent it.

Also, I would recommend doing each pattern once or twice, three times at the most in one day. Your horse will get bored. Practice it one time through, and make it a practice round to remind your horse to listen to you, and your second round will be more show-like. Remember that even in the practice round, you are trying to make it effective, so make every motion count. Be aware of your horse, don't sit tight or loose and toodle around.

Pattern #2

With each of these exercises, a marked track that is closer to the inside of the ring does not mean that you take an inside track. Rather, you continue on your previous rail (possibly in a different direction).

The lines across the length of the arena mark your "quarter."
Tracking left, pick up a trot. Turn down the quarter line and leg-yield to the right. Continue your working trot through your corner. Transition: Halt from the trot, about halfway the short length of the arena. Complete a turn on the haunches, and walk. Out of your next corner, pick up a canter and circle to the right. After you are straight (parallel to the rail) halt.

Pattern #1

This exercise may seem simple, walk, trot, canter. However it is full of transitions that are intended to lighten your horse's front end and respond to your aids.

With each of these exercises, a marked track that is closer to the inside of the ring does not mean that you take an inside track. Rather, you continue on your previous rail (possibly in a different direction).

Begin your pattern tracking left at the walk. Transition #1: Halfway through your straight-away, halt. Transition #2: From the halt, pick up a medium speed working trot. Through your second corner, lengthen and ask your horse to cover more ground, not pick up speed. Through your third corner, complete a half circle. Transition #3: Halt after you finish your half circle. You should be parallel with the rail. Transition #4: Pick up a medium speed working canter. Through your second corner, ride diagonal across the arena, asking for a simple lead change in the middle. Transition #4: From the canter, halt. You should still be diagonal to your corner.

The Importance of Flatwork

Training on the flat, along with another discipline (hunters, jumpers, etc.) should still be maintained as 75% of your horse's schooling.
Since I ride hunter jumpers, I am going to feed that idea into training on the flat. These next few exercises I made are simple to understand if you can read them correctly.
My disclaimer: None of this flatwork is effective whatsoever unless the rider executes each movement properly. A lot of times riders sacrifice basic riding position and equitation to accomplish the goal. I'd rather see minimal perfect work than lengthy sloppy work. It comes from you first, as the rider to feel your horse and communicate easily.

Each exercise I post will be thoroughly explained to my best ability. The movements included in these exercises will have to be taught first before you present your horse with a new movement in the middle of a pattern.

Movements:
Lengthening/Shortening (this DOES NOT mean collection and extension, but keeping the impulsion while covering more or less ground)

Leg-Yields

Turn on the Forehand

Turn on the Haunches

Circle/Half-Circle